Mosso Bianco 2020, Conestabile della Staffa (Umbria, Italy)
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Grapes: 70% Grechetto, 30% Malvasia Style: Sparkling white ABV: 11.5% Production: Organic, biodynamic Any added sulphites: No Filtered: No
With an elegant complexity and surprising depth of flavour, this bubbly white practically hops, skips and jumps out of the glass!
Mosso Bianco from the Conestabile della Staffa winery is a re-fermented white wine produced from Malvasia and Grechetto grapes. It is lightly sparkling and dry, with complex notes of lemon rind, apple, toasted nuts and apricot. The grapes undergo a short maceration on the skins and spontaneous fermentation of the two varieties together, with ageing taking place in fibreglass barrels. This is followed by natural re-fermentation in the bottle with no added sulphites.
Former student of architecture and one-time Umbrian wine-seller, Danilo turned to natural winemaking in the early 2000s after discovering first-hand what the chemicals in industrially produced wines can do to the body. A chance tasting of a natural wine made by his parents’ neighbour Vittorio Mattioli began what Danilo describes as a ‘radical change’ in his life and within a week of drinking the amber coloured white he joined Vittorio for what would become the first of many collaborations with masters of natural winemaking across Italy. More than 12 hectares of vines were in need of some love when Danilo took the reigns at Conestabile della Staffa but by 2015 he was able to release the estate’s first vintage in 60 years, using native grapes, natural processes, wild yeast, no temperature control and no added sulphur. For Danilo, it is Mother Nature who determines the wine.